In short
- Most modern used cars use electric power steering (EPS); older and some larger cars use a hydraulic pump and fluid.
- EPS fails electronically - a light, heavy or dead assist - and a failed rack or motor can be an expensive repair.
- Hydraulic systems leak fluid, whine when low and stain the driveway, but are often cheaper and simpler to put right.
- Our inspection in Budapest tests steering weight, self-centring and noise, and reads the EPS fault memory where fitted.
Power steering is one of those systems a driver only notices when it goes wrong, at which point it goes from invisible to alarming very quickly. On a used car the type of steering fitted changes both the failure modes and the repair bill dramatically: the electric systems on most modern cars fail electronically and can be costly, while the older hydraulic systems leak fluid and are usually simpler to fix. This guide explains the difference between electric and hydraulic power steering, the symptoms each produces, and how a pre purchase inspection tests a used car's steering so you know whether you are looking at a minor niggle or a major expense.
Electric or hydraulic: knowing what a car has
For decades, power steering meant a hydraulic system: an engine-driven pump pushed fluid through a rack to assist the driver's effort. It works well and gives plenty of feel, but it consumes a little fuel constantly and depends on a pump, hoses and fluid that can all fail. Most cars built in the last decade or so have moved to electric power steering, or EPS, where an electric motor provides the assistance directly and only when needed.
The distinction is not academic, because it determines how the system fails and what a repair costs. Knowing which type a given car uses is the first step in assessing it, and it is not always obvious from the driver's seat. Part of an inspection is establishing what is fitted, because a symptom that is cheap on one system can be expensive on the other.
How electric power steering fails
Electric systems fail in electronic ways rather than by leaking. The assistance can drop out entirely, leaving the steering suddenly heavy; it can behave inconsistently, light one moment and firm the next; or a warning light can appear with the assist disabled. Because the motor and its control electronics are often built into the steering rack or column, a failure can mean replacing a large, costly assembly.
There are cheaper causes too - a failing sensor, a software fault that a reset resolves, or a poor electrical connection - and telling these apart is where a diagnostic read earns its place. An EPS warning light with a stored fault code points the investigation in the right direction, so you are not quoted for a complete rack when a sensor or a battery-voltage issue is the real culprit.
How hydraulic power steering fails
Hydraulic systems announce their problems more obviously. A whine that rises with engine speed, especially on full lock, usually means the fluid is low or the pump is worn. A low fluid level almost always means a leak, and the leak has to be found - commonly at the pump seal, a hose, or the rack itself. Fresh fluid stains under the front of the car, or a reservoir topped up well above its mark, are the signs to look for.
Reading the fluid and the leaks
The fluid should be at the correct level and reasonably clean; dark, burnt-smelling fluid suggests a system that has run hot or been neglected. We look for weeping seals, damp hoses and staining on the rack and subframe, because a small leak ignored becomes a failed pump or a rack replacement in time. A leak caught early is one of the cheaper steering repairs.
Listening on full lock
Turning the steering slowly from lock to lock, engine running and stationary, reveals a great deal. A healthy hydraulic system is near-silent; a groan or whine that peaks at full lock points to a low level or a failing pump. A shudder through the wheel can indicate a failing pump or a belt issue, all of which we note and explain.
The steering tests that apply to any car
Regardless of type, some checks apply to every used car. On the move, the steering should self-centre smoothly after a turn, feel evenly weighted left and right, and be free of notchiness, sloppiness or a dead spot in the straight-ahead position. A car that pulls consistently to one side may have a steering or alignment fault, or simply uneven tyres, and part of the job is telling those apart.
Noise and vibration matter too. Knocks over bumps can be steering-related but often come from worn suspension joints that mimic a steering fault, so an inspector distinguishes the two. Uneven tyre wear across an axle frequently traces back to steering or alignment, which is why the tyres and the steering are read together rather than in isolation.
Column play, rack knock and telling steering from suspension
Not every steering complaint is the assistance system. Play in the steering column, a worn intermediate shaft or a knocking steering rack can all produce a vague straight-ahead feel or a knock over bumps, and these are mechanical rather than electronic faults. A small amount of free play at the wheel before the road wheels respond is normal; a noticeable dead area, or a clonk as you rock the wheel gently against resistance, is not.
The recurring difficulty is that worn suspension joints imitate steering faults almost perfectly. A knock over bumps that feels like it comes from the steering is very often a worn track-rod end, drop link or top mount instead. Part of a proper assessment is separating a genuine steering fault from suspension wear, because the repairs and the costs are quite different, and blaming the wrong component helps nobody.
How we assess a used car's steering on the spot in Budapest
Our inspection establishes which type of steering the car uses, then tests it accordingly. On a road test we assess weight, self-centring, straight-line stability and any pull, and we listen for whines or knocks. On an electric system we read the EPS fault memory; on a hydraulic one we check the fluid level and condition and look for leaks at the pump, hoses and rack.
The value to a buyer is knowing not just that something is wrong, but how much it is likely to cost. A hydraulic leak caught early is a modest repair; a failed electric rack is not. By identifying the type of fault before you commit, we help you judge whether a steering issue is a bargaining point or a reason to look at a different car.
Cars we inspect related to this guide
Browsing one of these? Open its inspection page to see the model-specific checks and book an on-the-spot pre purchase inspection in Budapest.
Frequently asked questions
How do I know if a used car has electric or hydraulic power steering?
It is not always obvious from the driver's seat, though most cars built in the last decade use electric power steering. A hydraulic system has a fluid reservoir under the bonnet and an engine-driven pump, while an electric one does not. Establishing which is fitted is part of an inspection, because it determines how the system fails and what any repair will cost.
Is electric power steering expensive to repair on a used car?
It can be, because the motor and control electronics are often integrated into the rack or column, so a genuine failure may mean replacing a large assembly. That said, many EPS symptoms trace to a sensor, a software fault or a poor connection, which are far cheaper. Reading the fault memory during the inspection is how we tell an expensive rack failure from a minor electronic fault before you are quoted for the wrong one.
What does a whining noise from the steering mean?
On a hydraulic system, a whine that rises with engine speed and peaks on full lock almost always means the fluid is low or the pump is worn, and a low level points to a leak that needs finding. On an electric system, unusual noises are less common and more likely to indicate a mechanical fault in the rack. We identify the type of steering first, then diagnose the noise accordingly.
Should a used car pull to one side while driving?
No. A car that consistently pulls to one side on a level road may have a steering or alignment fault, uneven or mismatched tyres, or a braking issue. Some of these are cheap to correct and some are not, so the cause matters. During the road test we assess the pull alongside the tyres, suspension and brakes to identify what is actually responsible rather than guessing.
Is a knock from the steering over bumps expensive to fix?
It depends on the true source, which is easily mistaken. A knock that feels like the steering is very often a worn suspension joint - a track-rod end, drop link or top mount - which is usually inexpensive. A genuine fault in the steering rack or column can cost considerably more. We separate steering wear from suspension wear during the inspection so the repair is aimed at the right part.
Found the car? Get it checked.
Before you pay, book an independent, English-speaking inspection in Budapest. We come to the car and report in English - 35 999 Ft or 39 999 Ft with photos and video.
